you are paying for the atmosphere

illustration by Alan Murdock
I. Starbucks and the Corner Diner
When my husband and I first moved to Portland, we lived in a funky, 1950's high-rise on the South Park Blocks. The rent was cheap, the managers were friendly, and almost all of our neighbors were feisty senior citizens who had lived there since the tower was hip. Probably the best-kept secret of this building was the greasy spoon diner on the first floor, with a back-room bar that mixed the cheapest drinks in town. That diner served the best Gardenburgers in Portland, so crisp on the outside and gooey on the inside that I wondered if the cooks secretly deep-fat-fried every patty. Oh, and the salads featured actual greens - no iceburg lettuce.
Recently, we went back for a visit. We heard the apartments had been remodeled, and we wanted to take a peek. We chose the diner entrance, hoping to stop in for some coffee, but the windows that once revealed tattered booths and a rotating dessert carousel were empty. Then we realized: our greasy spoon had been gutted, the space divided into thirds. One third was still vaguely recognizable as the remains of the cafe, even with its booths ripped out and counter stools yanked from the floor. It had not yet been leased to a new business. The next third had been transformed into a Starbucks, packed with college students from nearby Portland State. Last (and perhaps most offensive), was a Subway, complete with that peculiar doughy aroma.
I was shocked, but not surprised.
The last time we visited our little diner, it had already suffered serious blows. The door leading directly into the high-rise lobby had been sealed, leaving only the front entrance available. This space that had always been the glue of the apartment community - the place where residents met for lunch or Sunday breakfast - was officially severed. Separate.
We peeked into the Starbucks and immediately understood that our old, funky building was lost forever. Students sat alone or in small groups, at separate tables, barely acknowledging one another. Lattes and iced coffees were served up in seconds flat, and while the baristas seemed friendly, they did not ask customers about their day (and even when they did ask, it was clear they had no time to hear the answer). At the diner, people used to shout hello across the restaurant, carrying on loud, personal conversations over the clinks of heavy china and silverware. The waitresses knew everyone's name and life story, and the price of a whole meal was equivalent to one froo-froo drink at Starbucks. It was a rambunctious sort of place, where you could sometimes wait fifteen minutes for your menus and water, as the waitress made her chatty rounds. I made more interesting acquaintances there than I could ever imagine making at Starbucks.
We walked into the lobby of the high rise, and we were stunned to find the front desk had been ripped out, replaced with a folding card table and stack of leaflets. Where once an entire staff had greeted visitors, there was now just one lonely rental agent, yawning as she stared into space. Most of the feisty seniors were gone. The apartments were a bland impersonation of fancy lofts in the Pearl.
On the way out, we joked, "Which came first, the Starbucks or the remodel?"
II. The Table Makes the Mood
This weekend, I noticed a strange table inside the nearby Starbucks. It was wider and longer than most of the other tables, with a four-inch-wide gap in the center. Tiny blue lamps were planted at either end, at approximately eye level. This being the longest table in the cafe, you might expect large groups to sit there. But no, this table was clearly designed for loners - people who need to be alone but for whom no private tables are available. Either that, or large groups of students who arrive together and study in silence. You could talk over the lamps, but who wants to gaze into a burning bulb?
I watched as a group of four women walked up to the table, scooted the chairs to one end, sat down, and huddled around a corner. Hot coffee steam wetted their faces as they leaned in close. I loved how they made this space their own, but I could not help but notice their anxious glances, as they waited for a chance to score a better table. As soon as one opened, they grabbed their mugs and rushed over, planting their lattes like flags. Almost immediately, their laughter grew freer and louder, and they now had space to slide stacks of photographs across the polished surface.
"Is this Jake?" one of them asked, holding up a photograph.
"As in office party Jake?" the other two chimed in, sitting up on their knees and leaning forward to gaze at his image.
Later, I watched as four men in gabardine suits walked up to the table, stood for a brief moment behind the chairs, and walked away. Without speaking, they had all decided against it. They opted instead for the nearby handicapped-accessible table, dragging their chairs across the floor. There, they discussed the remodel of a downtown apartment building.



